Clachaig to the Holly Tree by bike

Any day now the bike tracks along the A82 from Glencoe to North Ballachulish will be complete. After months of work, which passers by can't help but have noticed, the new tarred paths alongside the busy road are all but finished.

 New signage to guide your on your way - Glencoe crossroads

The new bike paths provide both an important link between scattered rural communities and a valuable addition to the local tourist  infrastructure. Being able to travel safely by bike amidst such gorgeous scenery is a must, and so to prove a point we checked out the ride from Clachaig Inn in Glencoe to the Holly Tree Hotel at Kentallen Pier.

The first couple of miles are on quiet single track roads, and there's a nice bit of downhill gradient to get you into the swing of things. Nearer the village, the first sections of the Glencoe Orbital Track will take you off the road as far as the Hospital Drive. In time, it is hoped that there'll be a path all the way along the old village road as far as Clachaig, where it will then meet up with a return down the glen, past An Torr and Signal Rock and then back to the village by the National Trust for Scotland Visitor Centre.

If you haven't got your bikes with you, then try hiring from Davy at Crank It Up Gear. Leave your car in the Glencoe Village car park and start the journey from here.

From Glencoe Village, the route uses the old section of road past Craft & Things (save your coffee and cake stop for the return!) and along TighPhuirt. Sections of new tar then take you along past Ballachulish Village and towards the impressive setting of St John's Church. Built in 1842, the present church is now in need of repair and restoration and attempts are being made to raise the estimated £1m required.

It's definitely worth stopping to take in a bit of history, and to also marvel at the panoramic views across Loch Leven from the church.

 St John's Church, Ballachulish

Stunning panorama across Loch Leven to the Pap of Glencoe from St John's

More smooth tar will take you to Ballachulish roundabout next. If you're heading for North Ballachulish, continue on over the bridge, but we took a left turn along the old Ballachulish railway line, which continues through Glenachulish and is currently rideable all the way to Kentallen Pier.

 Left turn for Glenachulish, Kentallen and Oban!

But a little more exploring and a much needed coffee break was required, so once in Glenachulish we took a right turn off the Sustrans track and headed down past Ballachulish House to the Dragon's Tooth Golf Course.

 Passing the walled garden at Ballachulish House

Simply exploring this hidden corner of the area is a good enough reason to head down to The Gathering Place, but equally, the prospect of coffee, cakes and a more extensive bar menu might tempt you!

Parked up at The Gathering Place. Cakes, coffee, golf... Take your pick!

Back on the bed of the old railway line, the views open out, and on a day such as the one we chose, it's just amazing. The views across Loch Linnhe to the Ardgour and Morvern Hills are the best you could wish for. There's a few little shingle beaches and coves where you can get off and search for crabs, watch the cormorants, or simply take a snooze.

Carved stones and impressive ironmongery add to the atmosphere of the route.

The Sustrans route will hopefully continue beyond the Holly Tree Hotel, all the way to Oban and beyond. When it does it will be a superb journey. For now, you need to join the road again as far as the bad corner at Lettershuna, where you can join another section of track past Castle Stalker and the Strath of Appin. Further on, there's also a complete section from Creagan Bridge to the Sea Life Centre. 

 I just want to jump in!

Time to head back again

In the meantime, take a while to enjoy the view (and a beer!) at the Holly Tree before jumping back on your bike and doing it all over again in reverse!

A Tale of 2 Bike Rides

This weekend I have mostly been cycling. And what a real treat it has been, getting out and active in the sunshine in the Scottish Highlands; a winning combination of stunning scenery, clear skies, adrenalin, fresh air, and good fun.

A sunny afternoon at Castle Stalker, Port Appin

Fun, however, is probably not a word used by many to describe the Bealach na Ba Sportif. Starting and finishing in the small coastal village of Shieldaig, the route takes in the highest road pass in the UK, the (in)famous Bealach na Ba and 43 miles of the most stunning scenery. Did I mention that it also includes 6500 feet of ascent?

The route profile. Can you spot the top of the Bealach?

Ok, so after a while, the climb does start to hurt a little bit. Quite a lot in fact. But then there's the downhill on the other side, and whilst not everyone's cup of tea, I personally do rather enjoy it. I'm sure the view is fantastic, but at 45mph on skinny tyres with steep hairpins I can't say that I saw much more than the tarmac in front of me.

With the makings of a cyclist's sun tan and 15 minutes shaved off last year's time, we headed back home to Glencoe, well satisfied and slightly fatigued. Nothing that a little cake and beer couldn't sort out.

Compare and contrast the ride we did yesterday. A little more relevant to a Glencoe blog, and a little more 'inclusive'.

Following the route of the old Oban to Ballachulish railway line by Castle Stalker

Every now and then we mention the new Sustrans cycle route being developed between Oban & Glencoe. Some sections are now complete, and so we decided to head south to Appin and enjoyed a very leisurely 14 mile loop.

Breathe in when crossing the narrow Jubilee Bridge

The best place to park is at the long lay-bye at Lettershuna, just before the road takes the sharp corner and steep incline up to Castle Stalker View Cafe. Here, you can join the old railway line and follow it round the corner (at low level) past the picture postcard backdrop of Castle Arggghhh. The track continues through the Strath of Appin but alas ends before Creagan Bridge, where the next section of track picks up.

Another narrow section by the Jubliee Bridge

However, crossing over the main road takes you onto the very quiet back roads and round by North Shian, and on to Port Appin. And when in Port Appin, the thing you have to do is sit on the terrace at the Pier House with a cold beer, taking in the sun and the view across the sound to the isle of Lismore.

The views are so good it's best to stop to take them in

From Port Appin there's another short road section before cutting off on a narrow track to cut the corner off over the Jubilee Bridge. This track soon meets up with the railway line again, from where it's just another mile back to the car, with one last look at the view of Castle Stalker.

All told, the ride is about 14 miles and with one exception (a short walk if you're out of puff!) has very low gradients.

The Postscript

I think I've done some stupid things in my time. Everything from marathons, to the Ben Nevis Race, to 24 hour endurance rides. But, in retrospect, the Yorkshire 3 Peaks Cyclocross Race could quite well have topped the list.

Finish line and still smiling - must have been good!

I mean, just where is the sense in carrying a bike up 3 dirty great big hills and then trying to ride down them, especially when the bike is lacking all those modern luxuries such as suspension and disc brakes to make riding back down again comfortable, and perhaps even safe?

About 500 riders lined up in a tiny Dales village yesterday morning, all dressed in lycra and wearing nervous grins and deep heat in abundance. The start is like a road race, with the bunch moving fast & furious through to Horton in Ribblesdale. After a very quick few road miles the route then turns uphill, on rough farm tracks and then out onto the fell. Last time I was here was about 25 years ago and I was disappearing underground down Long Churn Cave. This time we were pushing, sweating grunting over the top of it, bound for Simon Fell and the summit of Ingleborough.

The climb was purgatory. I was drowning in snot, not having much fun and ready to pack it all in. But then came the descent to Cold Cotes. Oh yes! Back in business and smiling again!

Back on tar again and heading round towards Whernside, came the most bizarre moment of the race. A small group of riders, all huddled together in a little chain gang, lead out by some chap with a babyseat complete with 2 year old on the back. No one saw how he got on carrying it up Whernside!

By comparison to Ingleborough, the ascent of Whernside was a doddle. Well, easier anyway. The descent off the other side slightly more interesting. I passed a fair few punctures, broken bits of bike and at least one broken collar bone.

Nearing the road again at Ribble Head

Then the home run. From the iconic Ribble Head viaduct there's another blisteringly fast road section back to Horton. And then it all goes horribly wrong again. A left turn up a narrow cobbled lane and a 450m climb upwards, ever upwards to the summit of Pen-y-ghent. I quickly rang out of gears but somehow managed to keep on turning the pedals to the final steepening. All the while, far more able riders than I were hurtling back at us at ridiculous speeds over the cobbles - this was an out and back section.

The summit came and went. All there was to do now was finish. Back down that track, hanging on for dear life all the while, memories of a recent trip over the handle bars trying to break the concentration, and then a quick road sprint.

Crossing the line - an emotional experience!

4 hours, 45 minutes after starting, came the joy of crossing the finish line. Mission accomplished. Race finished. And completed in under 5 hours. You beauty!

A few more pics here, courtesy of my support crew!

A little bit of madness for the weekend?

So, how would you like your madness served this weekend?


Me, I'll be heading off to the Yorkshire Dales to compete in THE event in the annual Cyclocross calendar. Anyone know anything about cyclocross? No, me either. All I know is that I've got an entry for the Yorkshire 3 Peaks Cyclocross race and that I'll have to bike / run with bike on shoulder up / down Ingleborough, Whernside and Pen-y-ghent covering 38 miles in the process. And I've got a lurgie which I'm struggling to shake off.

But still, how hard can 38 miles be. T'is but a short training ride. And 5000ft of uphill. Well, they're more molehills than they are mountains! The Ben Nevis Race must be 4500ft and I did that no bother. So, sounds like its going to be a walk in the park, then!

Closer to home, the madness this weekend will be of the WET variety, with the Glen Etive River Race. Yes, I pinched the photo from their web site but if this is anything to go by I'm a little disappointed that I won't be around as it looks like some excellent spectator sport action.

See the web site for details and catch anyone who competes and lives to tell the tale at Clachaig Inn afterwards for the prize giving.

National Cycle Route No. 7

At long last, some cracking weather. The word about some big blue skies and some glorious sunshine must have got out as it looked like every available parking space in the glen was full this weekend.

In search of some family friendly biking, we found ourselves a bit off the patch, down the A82 & A84 towards Stirling, in the small village of Strathyre.


Here you can pick up the National Cycle Route No. 7 and follow relatively low gradient and easy trails all the way into Callander. Well away from the traffic, its a scenic ride round the far side of Loch Lubnaig and then down past the Falls of Leny.

The Cycle Route continues on through the Trossachs to the south, or through Glen Ogle and to Killin to the north, and I can see us coming back to explore some of these other sections in due course. Stopping off at the top of Glen Ogle and then riding down the old railway line, bypassing Lochearnhead and then heading on the Balquidder looks a favourite for the next visit.

The only problem with the plan is getting back to the car once you've reached your destination. However, for me its a chance to get the legs working again with a sprint back along the track. And with a play park by the river in Callander, and sweet shops that sell huge gobstoppers, it wasn't really an issue for us!

All who wander...

Finally, after weeks of unrelenting bad weather, the sun has come out. The glen looks magnificent again. Time to clear a space in the diary and go wander.

Its taken a few days to start feeling human again. The Ben Race and then the rescue call out on Sunday really took it out of me. But with another big event on the horizon, I was keen to get back to the training as soon as my aching body would allow. And what better way than to head over Corran Ferry with the cross bike and ride the Liddesdale & Kingairloch Loop. 40 miles of some of the best countryside and cycling that the west coast can throw at you.


The ride starts off with a good warm up along the main road to Strontian (I say main road, but the only traffic that passes you is the half dozen cars every hour when the ferry comes in.) Its a good spin round to Glen Tarbert and then the work starts as you climb, invariably into a westerly headwind through some typically remote and rugged and Highland scenery. But its short lived and you're soon spinning out in top gear heading down to the junction to Lochaline.

The real killer on this loop is Liddesdale. A long and not insubstantial climb that really builds stamina and gets your heart rate high. Once at the summit its big gear again. Look out for the left turn down the minor road (at this point you might wonder how much more minor it can get) to Kingairloch.

By the time you've covered the 4 miles to Kingairloch you'll be picking the flies out of your teeth. To my mind its one of the best bits of road riding in Scotland. Dipping, swooping, turning and all generally heading back to sea level. The first house you pass definitely leaves you with the impression that you're in banjo plucking country. And as you descend, the scenery softens, until finally you're down by the water in an idyllic sheltered bay, amidst the few houses and one church that is Kingairloch.

Sensible folk will of course plan their visit to tie in with opening hours at the Kingairloch Boathouse Restaurant run by former Glencoe residents Kurt & Susan.

From here on you're in the home straight. Although its not straight. It twists and turns, hugging the coast as it goes. On this trip I saw porpoises rising, herons galore, skuas (at least I think they were skuas), wild goats (they look pretty angry anyway) and a buzzard. On previous trips I've come across deer blocking my path and even watched otters playing in the sea.

So, while ever Corran Ferry is free to foot passengers and bikes, take your car and park at the slip, and take half an hour or a full day to explore the other side. You don't have to go beyond Argour, but the further you go, the more hooked you'll become.

All who wander are not lost!

Build it and they will come

We’re big fans of the new Sustrans bike track that’s slowly taking shape between Glencoe and Oban. If you’ve been paying attention then you’ll have seen the odd mention here on the blog. It’s idyllic. Particularly the bit between Glenachulish and the Holly Tree, where the traffic free smooth tarmac skirts the water’s edge and brings you out at a place where you can buy beer and crisps. What more can a cyclist ask for!

Its much the same in Annecy really. Watch the Tour de France this week and you’ll see a load of cyclists whizzing round this French lake in one of the closing stages of the famous bike race. But they’re missing the best bets. They really should take more time over it and enjoy the lakeside cycle track.
In many ways the Lake Annecy track is simply the M25 version of the Oban one. Built on an old railway, and often skirting the idyllic waters edge with a mountain backdrop. But the traffic can get a bit nose-to-tail at times (watch out for those in line skaters!) and, of course, its at least 10 degrees warmer.


If anything, it just goes to show that when you provide the facility, it’s not long before people come and use it. Lake Annecy might have the most famous bike race out there to whet folks appetite, and some rather pleasant weather too, but you’ve got to believe that when the connecting sections of the Sustrans route are completed, cyclists will flock to it in significant numbers.

Sustrans Bike Route

World Cup Mountain Biking a bit too extreme for you? Fancy some ideas for something a little easier? Something with a pie and a pint included perhaps? We've got that too!

Since opening last year, the Sustrans bike track between Glenachulish and the Holly Tree Hotel has been very popular. No matter when you go, you'll always meet someone making use of this great new facility. We like it because its one of the few places you can go with children that has a good surface, isn't full of steep gradients and is safe from traffic. Oh, that and the Holly Tree Hotel at the end of it, where you can sit out on the deck and feel like you're on holiday, even though you are in fact just a few miles from home.

At present, the route is quite short and for those without young children, it might not be worth the effort of driving to Glenachulish. However, the route from Fort William to Oban is under development and other sections are nearing completion. Try from Creran Bridge to the Sea Life Centre for example (but don't hold out much hope of a tea and a bun there unless you pay the full entry price - which is a bit odd)

We understand that the route which terminates at the old Ballachulish Ferry railway station at present (look on the left as you approach Ballachulish Bridge and you see the tarmac track) is soon to be extended to Glencoe village. Here's hoping, as a safe cycle track by the incredibly busy A82 will be a real benefit to the entire area.

Want to try this but haven't brought your bike? Hire a bike locally at Crankitup Gear in Glencoe village.

Pain is only weakness leaving the body...

You may recall that a few weeks ago I had a bit of a whinge about lashing rain and even a bit of snow on the Cycling Sportive event over the famous Bealach na Ba. Why can't the weather be a bit better for these events... In future I'll keep my big mouth shut!

Yesterday saw the 2nd in the HandsOnEvents series of Sportives. The location was the Isle of Skye. The forecast was HOT! The more sane riders out there would probably chose the Skye Beag. A mere 48 miles starting in Portree and heading north past the popular Skye landmarks of the Old Man of Storr and the Quirang.

However, being far from sane I opted for the Skye Mor, which adds in a quick tour of the west of Skye, out to Dunvegan and Sligachan, bringing the total to 96 miles and a cumulative ascent of 3000m. Nice! And I don't do 'hot'.

The first leg was fast and furious, thanks to a 'brisk' tail wind. Unfortunately, that brisk tail wind then turned into a brisk head wind for much of the rest of the circuit until Sligachan. Still, it kept the searing heat reflecting off the tarmac under control. Can't say that it was easy going. Good bits and bad bits. And some very bad bits. Especially the long, lonely haul over to Dunvegan. Much pain, much weakness leaving the body. Why, oh why do I do these things?

But before you know it the left turn at Sligachan appears and then a real treat. 30 mph plus in the big ring downwind, slightly downhill on smooth shiny tar back into Portee and the finish line.

Not sure of the official time. There were other things on my mind at the finish, like lying in the shade and trying to straighten my back out, and crying. But the bike computer has a riding time of 5hrs 48 mins (add on a few minutes for the time spent lying on the road in Dunvegan trying to straighten my back out) for 96 miles, making that an average speed of just under 17mph. Oh, and a max speed of 51mph! Must have been the downhill side of those 3000m of climbing.

The "Stolen Bridge" on the Puggy Line in Leacnachan
- part of the 10 Under the Ben Course.

Meanwhile, the other half of the Clachaig board of directors, the one not usually associated with a passion for wearing lycra and getting muddy, was competing in the real bike event of the weekend, 10 Under the Ben.

Reports from Leanachan are that it was another hot one - that's 3 years on the trot. And a busy one, with a thousand or so entries this year. Plenty of stories of tree roots, muddy holes, endless climbs and other deeds of daring biking.

So, if you're at Clachaig this week, just be kind to the 2 sorry looking chaps walking round with a gait like John Wayne. Its been a hard weekend!